Sunday, October 9, 2005

Wooooo Mongolia!!

 

Mongolia is so cool!

 

I'm not quite sure where to begin. We arrived in Ulaan Bataar on the 5th and after a brief, and very chilly tour, we headed out to the countryside. We were soon out of the city and on dirt roads that bumped us up and down and side to side. Actually, "road" is a bit of an overstatement, basically they were just slightly worn tracks. We watched the rolling hills and vast plains that surrounded us, and then, out of nowhere as we reached the top of a hill, our ger camp came in sight. There were about 10 gers - the housing that the nomads live in - just plunked in the field. That was where we were staying. The gers are so cute and cozy! They are round tent-like structures with a small door painted bright orange (that I bumbed my head on many times when entering). They are the covered in thick layers of felt and canvas to keep it warm inside, with a stove and chimney in the center. All the support beams were also bright orange with colourful paintings decorating them. Other than that there were beds, a table and a few stools, and a vanity. Basic, but effective.

 

Our first night was filled with vodka and Mongolian drinking games that revolved around throwing sheep ankle bones like dice. Our first drink of the evening was a healthy shot of vodka turned bright red with paprika. Toktoi! The Mongolian cheers seemed to be ringing out continously.

 

But the camp wasn't the highlight of our experience. Although I did have an enjoyable time there, learning archery - well, learning that I'm horrible at archery - and wandering the endless hills and plains. The real treat was going to live with the herdsman family. We rode there by horse and arrived to find 3 gers, and a corral. Our new, temporary home. Bathroom facilities were an interesting experience, I'm getting to experience a whole range of toilet quality. This was just a small pit dug a fair distance away from the gers, with a waist height metal screen around it. Still better than the trough though because at least this came with a fantastic view! Haha.

 

We were given some bread and fresh creamy butter that was delicious. And some cheese that nearly chipped a tooth. Then we moved to the next ger where we got to try some fermented mare's milk. Mmm-mmm! No. No no nonono. Not tasty at all. The smell when we entered the tent nearly made me gag, and when they passed the bowl to me, I thought for sure I would lose my lunch. I managed one extremely unpleasant sip, then resorted to faking it everytime it came around to me again. Blech, truly vomitrocious.

 

Our time with the family was brilliant. The first day was a bit tough because our interpreter was a no show, but the next 2 days were amazing. We went riding several times, and the feeling or galloping across the land, dust flying out from beneath my horses hooves, wind in my face, sun on my back and nothing but grass and hills stretching for miles all around...it's so wonderfully liberating and exhilirating, just thinking of it brings a glow to my cheeks. We rode out to help a family that was moving in preparation for the winter, so we got to help build a ger! So amazing! We also got to herd the horses, bringing them back in from pasturing. Racing along in this herd of horses, our Mongolian guide trilling and shouting commands, that's an experience I'll never forget.

 

The nights were cold out on the Mongolian Steppe, but the stars were mesmerizing. We all huddled together and lifted our heads to the sparkling sky. More constellations than I knew existed, the milky way wisping delicately from one corner of the sky to the other, and plenty of shooting stars to keep us oo-ing and ah-ing. Does it get more perfect than this?

 

We're back in the city now, enjoying the conveniences and comforts it has to offer - internet, showers etc. I'm left feeling amazed that people still live like that. It was like stepping back in time. They had the essentials, they worked hard, they sustained themselves. They were really generous and happy, and they had this wonderful huge family with so many children and grandchildren and in-laws and cousins... Everyone visits each other even though they're so far apart. No relying on phones and text messaging or email. They were all so close. A part of me is really envious of them.

19 comments:

Unknown said...

(¯`v´¯) `•.¸.•´ (¯`v´¯) `•.¸.•´ (¯`v´¯) `•.¸.•´ (¯`v´¯) `•.¸.•´ LuvFromANG

monty said...

.. fantastic !!yes, nowadays we have so much but at the same time so little .the best trips I have been on have always involved less rather than more . there\'s a lesson for the 21st century there somehwere .

Laoch said...

I have major travel envy. Mongolia sounds extremely interesting. Nice write up.

Miss said...

Hey Manders,Maybe you did a post on this about how you got this lovely trip organized or not, but I\'m curious as to how it was organized. I would love to do something like this when I head back to Asia and start travelling again. This time around--it being my second trip overseas because we all know going to the US doesn\'t count for much as the US is like Canada in many ways--to be able to travel to areas like Mongolia or even northern China. I\'d love to do the silk road travel with the camels and whole bit.Let me know contacts and stuff if you can so that I can plan something like this in the future. I think it would be an awesome journey. When I go to South America after Asia I\'ll be doing something similar to your trip in Mongolia. I\'ve already started the research to stay with families and travel around by donkey :P Either way sounds like a fantastic journey and right now i\'m very jealous because you\'ve done it and I\'ve not! I\'ll get there, just now not until my contract is done with the school board here in Canada. Damn these contracts and having to stay for them!

Miss said...

Ohhh and i forgot.....Happy Turkey Day dear!

Josie said...

no telephone ..i don\'t think i\'d ever hear from my family ...somthing to ponder ...have a good one!!TTfN

lisa said...

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bob said...

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Jade said...

Oh my god woman- this is amazing!!! what a truely wonderful incredible experiance- truely an experiance of a lifetime!! Thank you so so much for sharing this with us.

The Lovely Lindsey said...

What?? Someone let you play with a bow and arrow?? I sure hope there was adequate supervision...

Theresa said...

Wow that sounds so amazing! How do you end up organizing a trip like that? Staying in a ger? And with a family? That sounds sooooo wonderful!!! What an amazing experience!T

ajhs said...

How are you? Hello From the USA. I was wondering if you could tell me how much the price of rice is over there?

Touly said...

wow, total bright spirits, i\'m not sure if i could handle that setting for too long. I saw a documentary on some guy doing what you did, he was taken in by a family and helped them prepare for the big move due to the climate change. It\'s true what you say, they all seemed really happy.

Jiayu said...

hi, here are greetings from southeast China. I got your space link from unklebob. your blog is really worth reading

islandgirl said...

passing through.....been thwarted in my visiting by little or no internet connection! ARGH!! C U LATER!

Heather said...

That sounds so interesting, I wanna join you.

peabody said...

i miss ya babe.. good to hear yer having a good time! hey, what are those drinks called? i mean the vodka and paprika.. does it have a name?

Bronweener said...

Ha ha wow thats a good story, and, I especially like the part where, you know, and then, he he, and it goes, um, you know the bit where, yeah, that bit. Awww I just want attention.

Mik said...

Hey!Good to know that you are in one piece and that piece is having a blast!There is alot to be said for the "old way of life"... things we just take for granted in Canada...Cheers!Mikthepegger

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